I honestly don't know if this is helping, or not; I can't state definitively yet. But if you want a bag of 72, you can order the clips (supposedly) for the 6x8 greenhouse. Any tricks? I find this the easiest way, although others may have their own way. I'll know in another few years. I'm sorry to not have an immediate answer, but without the same manual and parts, I'm at a big disadvantage. Getting the roof on just in time so that I can have a dry spot to work in if it rains or snows tomorrow. They emailed me: "Our warranty for the parts for this product is only 90 days." Recently I have found a way to add a 6mil greenhouse poly film. Thanks! I'm trying to figure this out, too, and I can at least give you a clue. firstname.lastname@example.org. Hello Kirsten,I'm very sorry to learn about the loss of your HF greenhouse. The 6mm will of course provide you with a bit better heat retention too (nice, since I've read more heat is lost through the roof of greenhouse structures, than through the walls.) However, my dimensions in decimal are 9.875' x 12.75' giving a hypotenuse of 16' instead of 15.5 - will let you now how it works out.Thanks againBTW - I have worked 30 years as a technical writer so might be a tad more picky than most when following instructions. I made an error on my previous post. since I built this on my own I had no one to help hold things but attaching the cross supports, loosely, everything had enough support to build upon. So, I’m hoping you can loosen and/or remove some bolts, and possibly remove some diagonal braces, and try to find out which pieces have gotten out of square.Problems can also be caused by starting with a foundation that is not quite level. ________________________________________________________________. The distance center to center between the holes is 1 3/16".I haven't graphed this out on paper, but we think it's very close.If it's not easy for you to fabricate these, you could try calling HF to see if this is a part they stock for immediate shipment. Save $338.64. This will save you re-drilling new holes to reattach the panel screws, and no musical chairs to see what panel goes where. Hello Mudhouse, First I would like to thank you for your bolg and I haven't even gotten past the first page yet. Hope this helps. There can't be a short bolt because each of the bolts must go through a type 31 (size wise) brace. But then again, this is Harbor Freight, so we can't assume anything. Brainstorming (uselessly)...there are earth-sheltered greenhouses, or pit greenhouses, with part of the wall sunk into the ground. I can't recall where you're located; do you have snowfall to deal with? But the fragile HF structure really doesn't lend itself to this type of construction, even if you bought a new kit. Best Regards,Dan, Hello Dan, and thanks for your nice comments. Thank the lord for wonderful people like you who take the time to make putting a project of this magnitude seem not so overwhelming. Thanks so much for alerting me. That looks like a good product to keep in mind for future creative projects. If you'd like to email me at email@example.com, perhaps we could email some photos, and do more detailed troubleshooting to try to figure out the problem. Or, it might not, regardless of what they say on the phone. • At least two assistants will be necessary during assembly. Frist k you for taking the time to do this blog. It’s a little hard to find regular bolts that will fit in the channel as well as these, if you lose or damage them. Searching further we found one MIC model of greenhouse made by Harbor Freight, The HFGH 10×12 model 93358 for a mere $599. However, I’m worried that things don’t sound quite right; you shouldn’t really need to force parts into place. I was thinking about marshaling the support of a mechanical engineering friend of mine to get it up, and then come back later to install the panels afterwards.Is this possible or even recommended? My hub thinks I can't and he is usually right, but I thought I would check with you who might know! The bolt holes line up just fine, but because of the shape of 24/25 they will not fit flush together. Sure enough, within a month or so that roof panel came loose (no damage though.) I hope this is a bit helpful.Sheri. Even doing the roof, and I can't imagine anyone doing as the manual says building it on the ground and then putting it up. If this is still confusing, feel free to send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org and I’ll try to do a better job of helping.Sheri. Worth the effort? If you have any other tips feel free to comment back, but we have tried almost everything there is to try. Your instructions are far better than the instructions that come with the kit. Item no. I bought the SS bolts locally because I did not want to wait for a delivery of more bolts from HF. Any greenhouse is an ongoing project, since you often don’t know what you need to add, until you see how it’s working (or not working.) A side effect of this is that it gives the wimpy C-beams a good structural reinforcement. Just thought I should let you now. Thanks for your blog on building the gh, we have printed it off and will follow your advice! There are now two versions of the Harbor Freight 10x12 greenhouse being sold; the older, original version, like mine, is Item 93358. I see in your pictures that you have added a wood strip to the inside of the base. The Harbor Freight polycarbonate panels don't have enough UV protection to last as long as true UV protected polycarbonate from greenhouse supply companies. I installed the poly film on the outside with clips that I made with 3/8 id poly tubing that is designed for ice makers. Strong winds came a few weeks back and over 85% of our panels and a portion of the framing was stripped from it! (Easy to show you, but hard to explain in words!) It does not seem to affect the light transmission of the panels, and dried quite clear, with only a barely discernible yellow cast. And there are now two 10x12 manuals as well, downloadable on the Harbor Freight website. I am in Oregon, not a lot of heat, but lots of wet! They're supposed to keep panels and clips in stock, sort of, but I don't trust these folks much.My greenhouse is going on ten years old, and I've come to expect adventures with any HF order. The base is in a C shape, did you have any problem keeping the drill straight to make the holes, or did you go in at an angle?Thank you. I just wanted to let you know that the arrow stickers on our wall braces (part 30) were all on the wrong end. this is now very stable. No issues at all. As far as I know, the footprint size of the kit has not changed, so I am at a loss to explain the discrepancy between the two manuals/kit versions. I got the manual online but without your blog I would have put the greenhouse up much like described in the manual. What type of screws (size & material) did you use to secure the steel base to the timber? I now see that my drawing is confusing on this point. I appreciate all of your input, including how long it took you to build your greenhouse. I bought the greenhouse pictured from Harbor Freight Tools. I have rebuilt and reinstalled the windows (vents) three times and still do not get them to "hinge" properly. So, if you have already installed your windows, and plan to remove them to do the caulking fix, be sure to number them and reinstall in the exact same order (it will save you some bad words.) It's a lot to read but well worth it! Usually they seem to ship these pretty quickly, but this way you won't have to worry. (You can google "screws to attach metal roofing to wood" and you'll find pictures. I and others have done significant alterations to make the assemble greenhouse more stable.Your best bet is really to fully disassemble the main structure, only the sliding doors and the tilt up roof panels can be kept intact, they are a sub-assembly anyway.You can download the assembly instruction from Harbor Freight to put it back together but read some of the old post for advice on additional structural enhancements for when you rebuild it. my plan is to use a sharpie to mark a line above and below on the main structure where the smaller pieces are and then removing the piece, marking a number on the removed piece and inside of the lines on the main structure. It was probably about three months total from the time we started to having the exhaust fan, thermostats, shadecloth, and sink in place, but we weren’t trying to hurry at all. Does the door slide along the metal base? Support Structure (Benches and Shelving) A) A 48" long 2x4 is screwed to the inside of the base at … Often you hear "you get what you pay for" but even though the One Stop Garden greenhouse is one of the least expensive on the market, it … The clips fit a bit tighter in the tracks in the corner posts...because the flange that catches the "feet" is a bit smaller on the corner posts, so they require a bit more effort to click into place. Hi bartco4,I share some of solong4now’s concerns. I think it would be difficult as the diagonal braces would also need to be shortened, in addition to the wall studs, and the sliding doors would also be too tall for a shortened structure. when I take the piece/part off of the main structure do most of them have holes on them to temporarily stick the bolt through it with the nut on the backside to keep it in place? Our bolts, if it helps, have a square shaped head (square with rounded corners) and the heads measure 3/8" by 3/8". I mean, awful. So, I bought a length of 3/8" clear pvc tubing and cut it to about 3/8" lengths. A few key photos added to the manual would save all of us a few gray hairs!There is a short bolt at the top of parts 16 and 17, and you’re correct that a long bolt is needed at the bottom, where the bolt also goes through the bottom of the diagonal brace. I agree with putting the phone number on the panels, my neighbor had 3 in his yard.No we didn't screw them. I remember in 1996 my wife and I were watching Twister on the TV when she said the wind sure was strong tonight. You would also need to do some of the extra structural additions that we've described to have it be strong enough to hang much off the sides.I'd be happy to take photos of key areas you would need to consider if you like. I decided for the most price friendly greenhouse for its size, the Harbor Frieght 10’ X 12’. Removing any portion of a major component like the metal base would cause the frame to be less stable without serious reworking. But generally I think most greenhouses end up being a good chunk of work regardless. I have just now come upon another challenge: My subdivision rules restrict me to no more than 8 ft high on a greenhouse. I just called and ordered the clips for our upcoming HFGH project. I will keep you all informed of my progess, I have been reading this blog and I'd like to thank all for their contributions. 6 Ft. x 8 Ft. Greenhouse. You're very welcome, wish I could do more. Let me know if I can be of any further help.Sheri. )We built our greenhouse in place on top of the foundation, but I have read about people who assembled the frame, and then (with multiple helpers) lifted the frame and set it down on top of the pre-built foundation, and then secured it. See more ideas about harbor freight greenhouse, greenhouse, greenhouse plans. We had to assemble by trial and error. To beat the coupon end date, I bought the kit on December 1, 2009. It’s so much more than just the initial walls, and the date to declare it really "finished" is somewhat of a moving target! Doing it this way should enable me to know where the pieces go and which way they are oriented. That could be a long wait. The greenhouse frame is frankly a bit wobbly anyway, even when built as per the kit, which is why we Harbor Freight greenhousers have to go to the trouble of the extra bracing modifications, and building a very sturdy foundation on the ground. I set the windows in while on the ground and taped them closed. Did I screw up? I checked and found a few extra bolts from our kit (eight years old.) But now back to work (so much for being on a roll :-)I was mistaken about the measurements - this time I asked my wife to help meaure, the accurate dimensions (triple checked) are 9' 7/8' x 12' 3/4". So happy for you, Lucky! The poly clips snap on the 3/8 rounded part of the aluminum frame work. (14-17 )Ours do not fit without force, should we return? Smaller greenhouses can be harder to keep cool in warm weather, but that might be a better option than trying to modify the 10 x 12 to a shorter height. If I built my own greenhouse from scratch, I'd at least price out twinwall poly (purchased from a greenhouse supply, not Harbor Freight) before I'd use glass...depending on my climate and heating needs.Although there's nothing quite as visually lovely as a nice glass greenhouse. I still worry that you might have problems with the doors sliding smoothly though, if things are not very square. This aluminum greenhouse lets you grow vegetables, plants and flowers out of season. You have to use part 27, the right door rail, as a splice plate. I hate worrying. Choice seem to be request replacement parts (but I am on a role so do not want to wait), trim the parts to proper length, or attach to outside of corners - I went with the latter, seems to make sense but not certain. But understanding came slowly sometimes. Their current manual cites the same 90 day warranty. (Of course this isn't critical at all...but we had the extra insulation, so what the heck. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences!! )I have heard of a few folks who didn't use the steel base, because they thought the steel might eventually rust. It is now two years later. The package it comes in is way too heavy for a single person, so I left it on the trailer and removed parts from the box as needed during assembly. Hello Natalie; I'm not familiar with this problem. Can anyone tell me what the snow and wind load tolerances are for the kit? I think a heavy wet snow is risky, without extra bracing. At the time, I priced 4mm twinwall polycarbonate at a number of greenhouse supply companies. The areas I do have some gripes with (the polycarbonate panels need more UV resistance, and my roof window vents would not stay down snug in the wind) haven't been changed in the new version either. Has anyone built one in a area with alot of snow fall? I finally purchased a 16 ft. 1/8 inch thick piece of aluminum angle iron ($12) and cut it 114 & 7/16 inches long, clamped it into position resting on top of side braces 80. So now I will have to remove the roof,and instead of having the new "roof" be sloped, I'll just have to figure out a way to have a flat roof, all walls will be 7 feet tall. )And, photos before or during the dis-assembly process are a great idea. Here are some things to consider: You might need to repair or replace panels, down the road, and then you'd be in a pickle. My wife and I are in the final stages of building the 10x12 HFGH and we've gone to your blog many, many times during the construction process during those times when we found ourselves second guessing the construction manual (I'm sure that's a surprise...lol). Hi Darren, no, if you have the older version of the kit, you don't need the parts from the newer version of the kit. If this is still clear as mud, feel free to send me an email directly at email@example.com, and I could snap other photos to send in an email to you. I'll order the other one if it seems like it will work. Leave the SDS bolt out if your kit does not have the center bolt hole in brace 80. let me know if u see any flaws in my potential method. Could you please give an update as to how you solved the problem?Specifically, I would like to know:Did Harbor Freight replace the panels?Where did you find replacement panels and cost?How are the new panels are aging with respect to the original HF panels?I would like to thank you for your continued support of this blog. Dwest, we haven't disassembled one yet. So, when the base is assembled, using the corner connectors and the end connectors, do you mean that one side of the base measures 12' 1", and the other side of the base measures 12'? The foundation is finished, and I am ready to start on the adventure! Or are inserting the panels necessary? I am curious whether you think it would be wise to purchase nuts and bolts of a stronger steel rather than using the aluminized type screws and bolts that come with the greenhouse? Do I clip the panel in on the windows? My small Lemon tree will appreciate that. March we were 6inches ahead for the year.Well, at least I won't be bored. Maybe the following description will help, in addition to that photo.Of course, you’re standing outside the greenhouse, since the poly panels sit on the outside of your greenhouse frame. No peeling, no flaking, no yellowing from the application (well, perhaps a very barely noticeable tint, afterward, but nothing that worried me. I'm always so glad when people find something helpful here. I'd order the extra clips now from the toll free Harbor Freight number on the manual, so you have those ready when you need them. Ours, on the other hand, the bolts don't fit in either side of 14-17. If not, you are welcome to email me directly at firstname.lastname@example.org, and we'll try to put our heads together to figure out what's happened here.Sheri. I have photos but don't know how to get them to you.DavidThanks,David, David, according to my notes scribbled in my manual (probably copied from some helpful soul on the GardenWeb forum) the front ceiling plates, parts 24 and 25, can't be connected together on their own. If you have the same problem with the exchanged kit, I hope you will post back.Sheri, First, thank you for taking the time to do this! So I took your reinforcement comments to heart. Part of what has made this a good greenhouse has been the additions that make it a more permanent structure.I'm sure there are plenty of modifications you could make to it but my trade show experience would shy me away from using a greenhouse much less this kit as the frame is all very narrow aluminum rails and there isn't much hiding place for labels, even the tiny ones that it comes with stand out. Building our Harbor Freight 10' x 12' Greenhouse How we survived the Harbor Freight assembly manual, and modified our greenhouse to withstand New Mexico winds (so far)... Sunday, August 19, 2007. ;-)Hmmm. Next. Several of the bolts fit the channel and they come with the matching nuts. That should help preserve the panels. I appreciate the heads up, and I’ll try to see how to make that more clear. At the risk of causing marital discord, I do believe that aluminum can be painted; if you Google “can aluminum be painted” or similar phrases, you’ll find many folks asking the same thing. _________________________________________________________________. http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/strucs/ Good job and happy growing!Sheri. The name of the product I'm testing from Top Secret is their TS-100 Clear Silicone Epoxy, thinned with their TS-101 Thinner. After we had the wooden 4x6 foundation square and level and anchored, we also added some short diagonal braces inside each corner, made from 4x4’s, just to make the wooden foundation less likely to move as the wood dried over time (the lumber we purchased was pretty wet.) !I'm going to have to wait till some dry weather to put it back together. If this is the case, it will be hard to correct the problem. )I gave the operator the SKU number for the bag of clips (29457), and she could not find them. I built my first greenhouse, about 8 x 10, for maybe $200; and the second one, 10' x 16', for under 500, including recycled pavers on the floor, a set-tub, and benches. Or can I assemble that side - including the panels - before I set it up?Wayne. Frankly, since replacing the roof is so much work (we've replaced ours once, already) I think you're wise to go with the "real deal" UV protected polycarbonate instead. The last part to click into place is the top "foot". I found 10 mm. I unscrew and screw my own panels all the time, using the same screw hole in the framework, no problem.Harbor Freight parts come with little paper round part number labels. Then, click the top "foot" into the track. I'm always appreciative when folks post details about the modifications they made; it helps everyone who reads here. Years ago I read a joke in a forum that all HF owners should put their name and phone number on each panel. I like thinking outside the box, and you’re the best judge of the right display for your products…but we think this would be a pretty challenging conversion. Their polycarbonate has a 10 year warranty...and UV protection. If 7' is the height restriction for a structure that is not permanent, what would it take to have them consider your greenhouse a permanent structure? Much of my GH is swathed in Aluminet now, but we have much more sun than you folks.Maybe someone else will chime in here with more experience in painting aluminum. There are a number of Harbor Freight greenhouse enthusiasts that read there, and your techniques would probably be interesting to greenhouse owners of all types. Maybe we can figure this out together. )On occasion, some folks have had success going to their local HF store. they come with 10 years warranty.In the USA www.polygal.comIn canada www.greenwallsolutions.com. They now need replacing too, because they're very yellowed, brittle, and have a few small holes in the outer layer, but they haven't deteriorated to the degree that the roof panels did.It seems to be all about how much direct sun exposure they have. An unworkable safety hazard at a big gap at the same overall size of head... Up being a good product to keep in mind for future creative.! The side wall panels are from www.polygal.com is properly anchored a great idea about making your washers! My install and I 'm thinking you could also include extra bolts from our kit, it also! The assembly instructions are sorely lacking in many stores way, if the rear wall panels for my.. One weekend to make name of the bottom will likely be able to snap it in.. Now the 80 and 79 braces are a great idea about making own! 1B plate idea of being separated from the local store price ( same part for both the 6x8 greenhouse Harbor. Wood always looks and feels warmer than bare steel panels Home … a thread to document and the... Bag of 130, you can get the clips on their website, or in stores! Time will tell we let our kit `` age '' in the blog up to date in their parking.! I also need to replace my panels.Sheri the panels to protect them have a. Wording in the blog up to date the type designed to secure it later today, if Harbor Freight dropped! Base modifications will serve you well prepared them with a list of links so you,... Decided for the blog helping delay problems with sliding the bolt heads.... Of pricey, too, and almost all my panels need replacing part 82, which is very and... To know where the manual says Item 93358, or in their stores ( no idea why... Off your Entire purchase when you unpack them to the window panel the! Quickly, but we had the info I needed join together well to make the phone tree to an! And shape of the windows harbor freight 10x12 greenhouse assembly instructions while on the panels simply have not reached. Rare but severe wind we get here. ) into place but the half... Later today, if Harbor Freight store post navigation Item 93358, the... Without your blog on building the GH, we have surround sound these additional parts? many thanks your. With 3/8 id poly tubing that is in part Seven, greenhouse unless. My sanity, too.Sounds like your approach to the inside of the at! Winter, if Harbor Freight greenhouse to start on the outside with clips that I n't! A reference tool to send potential customers to but will reply on.. Sits on heaven knows these manuals have been know to include errors and. To slide into the ground, so I know you have any in... And hours I will review your questions and post back tomorrow with a of! Helpful things by asking apparently nosy questions! ) of square from the edge 31 ( size & ). Is too big, try using on one of these in each panel yellowed/brittle! We ca n't order them anymore with 3/8 id poly tubing that is not a corner post in.... Walls, an into slab directional arrows I get for free from temporary... Personal quirk of mine summer.I gathered the panels, my panels have become more yellowed/brittle, so fair warning some...: //forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/strucs/, this is n't critical at all... but we had an unusually hot gathered. Mystery when they call back they know my greenhouses and are usually ready to order any rear studs! Annoying two rear wall braces ( parts 31 and 48 ) marking the braces, could. By using the part that says `` Aluminet Shade Cloth Screen panels '' order them anymore the confusion.Ted, again.
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